Stuka Dive Bombing - I can't say why, but I like the Stuka. By most accounts, the Stuka was a good plane: it was rather slow, useless, and no match for the Spitfire. But the Stuka can dive, it's really good at what it's supposed to do (honestly) and it looks great. With its unique, curved wings, ailerons and flaps, landing gear and overall boxy design, it is truly a unique aircraft - perhaps one of the most unique of WWII. So I bought a foam Stuka: it looked good, but I refused. With a big engine and 4S, it had to fly fast, it didn't look good, and it was difficult to stay in the park. I guess the weight in the power ratio is a strong balance and wing shape. So, the Stuka really looks like a well-designed project - boxy and square, good for lights, and crashable (dive bomb). This is perfect.
The result of this building is the instructions, plans, and airframes for the Swappable Stuka JU87B. I chose the JU87B because I like the big airframe, and because it was the first model of the Stuka that was named after it. Surprisingly, there are only two Stukas left in the world (one of which I found - see below), so I based my design on pictures from that era, along with some more closely related designs.
Stuka Dive Bombing
The photo below is one of the two remaining intact Stukas, this one from the RAF Museum in London (a very nice museum, and I have now updated my old post to include more pictures of the actual program from my last visit). This is an older model than the one described here, but it is the same.
Ju87d Stuka Dive Bomber World War Stock Illustration 20907106
Here is a detail of the aileron-wing connection - the big hanging knot is the weight on the aileron.
This plane looks complicated, but it is actually easy to build. I'd say except for the landing gear, it's one of the easiest designs I've done (just a little harder than Messerschmitt or Mustang, but much easier than B25 and Pitts Special - see the link below. of the page). It really flew - I was afraid it was a real dog in the air, but it surprised me. It handles better than any plane I've ever owned (straight and wide), very stable in the air (no aerobatics with this big plane though), and it's amazing to dive. Easy to park, and with flaps (or none) it flies very well. The fall hasn't been great so far, but I've only tested it on suspended turf, so it's probably a fair test. I think the top would be great.
First, there are his first two flight films. The first includes some action cameras, some dives, and the popular bomb-cam. I made a bomb-Cam in the post Swappable B25 Mitchell, but linked here for the bomb (ie it has a strong release mechanism, and a good way to keep the bomb in flight). I will show you how to make your own remote release bombs below. The second film by a friend flying Ed, which has some great low pass shots, and Ed's usual good music and editing.
At the end of this article you can find the schedule for all sections. Start the wing, actually similar to the FT Spitfire. First make all the coins (two attached wings, and one attached spar) and cut out the two main parts. Be careful of the tips, and glue the airfoil as usual (with glue glue on the curled airfoil if you want extra strength). Also cut a large piece of wood on the front side of the chain where it will meet the top of the wing. Now cut an ovoid taper on the top of the wing that will form a point when you bend it (make sure you cut this at the top to get the right cut. Place the bottom of the wing in the same line to allow it to bend. , then carefully test-bend to get the shape.
Captured German Ju87 D Stuka Dive Bomber 1945
The wings will be assembled and folded simultaneously, in three steps. First, assemble the rear part of the spar to the lower wing area as shown in the picture, make sure that the angle sits on the score. Test bend the wings around this coin to make sure everything fits, that you get good air flow, and that the ovoid cut on the top is big enough for the wings to bend fully. This is a lot, so make sure you check carefully and know what you're doing before applying the glue. Then add seros. One at the end of the spar for the aileron, and also if you want to put the other flaps in the position shown in the plan (then cut the space for the servo arm). Once you're happy with the fit, match the leading edge to the rest of the spar face (above and below the recess), then bend the entire wing into place around the spar. Hold it in a safe place for a while until the glue sets, making sure the spar protrudes from the wing in the right place on the airfoil. Once this is set, join all the sides together, and hold them until they are set.
Test the wings - make sure everything fits before closing the rest of the frame or any part.
Repeat all this with the other wing. When it's finished, cut the pieces of spar that come out of the wing and try to fit them spar-spar (it's in the same line as the curved wing) by placing one copy in front of the big front and one in the back (see. picture ), then insert it on the other side. Check the wings on the line if they do not fit perfectly (a little gap is not a problem). Also note that the wingtips should be the same height as when you are sitting. If everything looks good, then drill a small hole in the top of the wing, pull the servo wires out of the hole and slide them out of the way, and attach the spar to one wing. Once installed, join the other side of the spar, and all the wings together, and hold the wings until they are in place. Put together properly.
The fuselage is fine, just assemble the box like the FT spitfire and my other builds, as shown in the picture above. Cut the tail piece, cut out the elevator shell and rod. The little thing at the end of the horizontal stabilizer is a sheet of paper that just sticks to the watch. Assemble the stabilizers as usual, making sure they are side by side, using glue. Then fasten them to the end of the fuselage, again, as usual, and make sure that they have free movement and sit in the right line with the fuselage. Hold the popcicle stick over the elevator to connect the two parts correctly. The elevator and rudder are inserted somewhere near the front of the tail section on the side of the fuselage, as usual. The rear wheel of the Stuka was too far, so I made a coiled wire wheel that held it up to the servo. You can only do a skid, or a wheel on a rode.
Dive Bomber Junkers Ju 87 Stuka Vintage Aluminum Airplane On
The wing should fit snugly into the wing shaped hole in the fuselage. carefully but firmly use the wing through the hole until it is centered, and on the right side of the fuselage. Make sure the wings are still flat - they should be close to and even with the top of the fuselage. If everything looks good, keep the wings in place. I will not have the wings removed if I plan to use this for bombing. I think it can crash if you pull too much at speed (high power and landing gear).
The installation is very simple, except for the front which is twice as thick as it will create less air at the top. Once they are glued in place, put the back cover paper on the clay, and press the bottom edges. Then fold down the front. Make sure the small piece sits snugly on top of the double, so when you tie it down you can push it down on the front row to get a little more air. Finally press the front of the big part down in the line, as shown (and the same with my Messerschmitt).
When installing the front cover, press the paper
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